Why Leave Gaps in a Path at All?

A perfectly tight patio has its place, but a garden path with a little green creeping through the joints feels older, softer and far more inviting. Those narrow channels between slabs or setts are also genuinely useful. They let rainwater drain away rather than pooling on the surface, they give the paving room to move slightly with the seasons, and they allow roots and soil life to knit the whole thing together. The trick is choosing plants that can cope with being walked on, because the middle of a path is a hostile place for anything delicate.

You do not need to dig up an existing path to try this. If your joints are already wide enough to take a finger, you can plant into them. If they are tight, you can widen the gaps as you lay new paving, or lift a few slabs and re-bed them with a slightly larger spacing. Aim for joints of between 10mm and 30mm depending on the plant, and plan for roughly one part planting compost mixed into the existing jointing material.

The Best Low-Growing Plants for Walking On

The classic choice for British gardens is creeping thyme, Thymus serpyllum and its many cultivars. It forms a dense, aromatic mat, tolerates drought once established, and releases scent every time you cross it. It flowers in midsummer and attracts bees, which is a bonus on any path edging a vegetable bed or herb border. Plant small plugs in spring or early autumn, roughly 20cm apart, and water them through their first dry spell.

Chamomile is the other great romantic option. Chamaemelum nobile 'Treneague' is the non-flowering form traditionally used for chamomile seats and lawns, because it stays low and never sets seed. It prefers a little more moisture than thyme and dislikes deep shade, but in a sunny courtyard it makes a wonderfully soft, apple-scented surface. Moss, meanwhile, is what will colonise shady, damp joints whether you plant it or not, so you may as well work with it. Species such as Bryum argenteum and common feather moss will fill north-facing paths beautifully and need no maintenance beyond an occasional sweep.

• Creeping thyme – sun, sharp drainage, superb scent, bee-friendly.
• Chamomile 'Treneague' – sun to light shade, soft texture, needs steady moisture.
• Moss – shade and damp, zero cost, self-sowing once established.
• Mind-your-own-business – tough and evergreen, but keep it away from borders where it can spread.
• Selfheal – a native that shrugs off regular treading and mows well.

Preparing the Joints Properly

Success or failure almost always comes down to what is underneath. A shallow scrape of builder's sand will dry out and starve the plants, so take the time to work a proper growing medium into the gaps. A good mix is roughly two parts sharp sand or fine grit to one part sieved topsoil or multi-purpose compost, with a handful of leaf mould if you have it. This gives drainage without turning the joint into a dust bowl.

Fill the joint to within about 10mm of the surface, firm it gently with a thin strip of wood, then settle your plants in. Small plugs or rooted cuttings work far better than seed for thyme and chamomile, simply because seed sown in a path has to contend with drying out and being scuffed before it ever gets going. Water everything in, then top up with a little more of the mix so the crowns sit just proud of the paving.

Choosing the Right Paving to Plant Into

Not all stone is equally suited to this treatment. Sawn sandstone, limestone and granite setts all work well with generous joints, and reclaimed brick laid on edge gives that lovely traditional cottage-garden look. Avoid very smooth porcelain or polished slabs if plants are your aim, because the surface offers no purchase and the tight joints most of them demand leave no room for roots. If you are laying new paving, consider a simple clay paver or riven sandstone and specify a 20mm joint from the outset.

Permeable systems are worth a thought too. A gravel-filled grid or open-jointed sett path drains quickly, which suits thyme and selfheal, and reduces the risk of the slimy algae that plagues damp, solid surfaces. Just be aware that very free-draining joints will need more watering in the first summer.

Keeping It Looking Good Through the Year

The first season is the demanding one. Water newly planted joints every few days in dry weather, ideally in the evening, and keep foot traffic light until the roots have knitted into the surrounding mix. After that, maintenance is refreshingly minimal. Shear thyme and chamomile lightly after flowering with garden shears or a strimmer set high, which keeps them dense and stops them spilling untidily over the slabs. Remove fallen leaves in autumn, particularly from shady paths, as a thick layer will smother moss and low plants alike.

Weeds will appear, but they are easy to deal with by hand while the joints are still loose. A thin old kitchen knife or a jointing tool lifts them out cleanly without disturbing your planting. If a section fails, do not despair. Lift the loose material, top up the mix and replant. A path that is slightly uneven, slightly green and clearly well used is exactly the point.